Photographed by Trene Forbes Photography
What stood out to me when interpreting the Diplomatic Tailcoat was the contrasts in texture and appearance. The coat has a very regal look with the gold embroidery on the navy blue wool fabric and the creamy white silk lining. The stand up collar and long tails gives the coat a very formal almost static appearance. Yet the laurel leaves and berries seem to almost whimsically dance on the coat. The contrasts of light and dark, formal and whimsical, strong lines and movement are interpreted in the floral design. The literal translation of blue and gold is achieved with the deep blue delphinium and gilded italian ruscus and gold stand. The movement and energy of the embroidery is replicated with the cascading florals and foliages. The sharp angle of the vessel and the burst of yellow oncidium orchids creates an unexpected stop of movement and an aspect of rigidness and formality.
-Jennifer Litterst
Larz Anderson’s Diplomatic Tailcoat
While serving as U.S. minister to Belgium, Larz Anderson commissioned a custom diplomatic uniform consisting of this tailcoat, as well as matching trousers, a less formal levée-style tailcoat, a sword belt, an overcoat, and a chapeau bras hat. The tailcoat is made of dark navy blue wool, with elaborate embroidery in a laurel leaf-and-berry design made of gold bullion and sequins. Lined in beige silk, the coat closes with metal hooks and eyes down the center front, which is covered with ornamental gold buttons bearing the Great Seal of the United States. The Andersons did not display the uniform, but the Society has since the 1940s.
Title: Diplomatic Uniform Tailcoat
Artist/Creator: Davies & Son, London, England
Date of Creation: 1911
Location: Second floor, Olmsted Gallery